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The Adria Airways story dates back to , when it was founded as a charter company. And the giant barb, a blimp with thick, blubbery lips and scales the size of your palm, sometimes referred to as the pound goldfish. Best known of all, though, is the Mekong giant catfish. More than just throwbacks to a wilder, more awe-inspiring time, the giants—as the rarest of the rare—in Cambodia and Laos indicate by their presence that the Mekong River ecosystem, while overfished and degraded in parts, is still functioning well enough to sustain all those less threatened species as well.
Protecting the giants means protecting a living Mekong, and everything in it. The researchers would then rush to the scene to measure the fish, tag it, and release it, and the fisherman would get a small payment not to mention bragging rights for helping.
General Statistics Office Of Vietnam
For years the system worked well: The fish hot line received up to 10 calls a year, and tagged fish began turning up in locations hundreds of miles apart, allowing Hogan and his colleagues to track their movement and growth. But during the past five years or so, the calls have diminished to just one or two a year—or sometimes none at all. Cambodian dealers have traditionally avoided giant fish, thought to bring bad luck.
Vietnamese dealers have no such qualms. In the past, many fishermen in Kompong Luong unintentionally caught giant Mekong fish. They hardly ever do these days. This mind-set is a major influence behind the sale of illicit wildlife goods like pangolin meat, rhino horn, ivory, and tiger parts, and it seems to be playing a role in the trade of megafish too. Their flesh has been described in the Vietnamese media as having the ability to bring good luck and boost sexual performance. He texts a growing pool of regulars every time one arrives.
Sometimes we even have to bid with other restaurants for it. Wildness, like rarity, is a highly valued attribute in Vietnam. All four restaurants I visited in the country assured me that their giant fish come from the wild. Giant fish have long been respected—even revered—in Cambodia. Thomas Raynaud, aquaculture director at Neovia Vietnam, a French company specializing in livestock and aquaculture management and health, agreed that such a massive fish almost certainly comes from the wild. Nor are aquaculture-grown giants likely to be imported from other countries.
Thailand has a number of well-established Mekong giant catfish farms, but those fish normally weigh no more than about a hundred pounds when sold. Some Mekong giant catfish, he added, do grow to nearly pounds in government-stocked reservoirs in Thailand, but he knows of no such operations in Cambodia, Vietnam, or Laos.
Giant barbs, on the other hand, are a completely different story, Sukumasavin said. Though the species has been bred in captivity for more than 40 years, those fish are almost always released into the wild—not sold for meat. After Phan Sok Phoen caught two giant barbs, Vietnamese traders tried to persuade him to sell the fish, which would have been illegal.
Phoen refused, but he says other Cambodian fishermen have chosen to break the law and work with the Vietnamese. Cambodia has long been a stronghold for giant fish, partly because of cultural veneration for them. Mekong giant catfish appear in 12th-century carvings on the Bayon temple walls near Angkor Wat, and any fish weighing more than a hundred pounds is widely regarded as having godlike qualities. Many Cambodian fishermen consider it unlucky to catch one.
Phan Sok Phoen, for instance, was horrified last year when he found a plus-pound giant barb in his net on two separate occasions. Phoen immediately called fisheries officials at Kompong Luong village, who helped him release the fish. To mark the occasion, he lit incense and said a few prayers, imploring the fish to bless him with good fortune for returning it to the lake. By choosing to abide by his beliefs, Phoen passed up a big payday. Vietnamese traders began showing up in his community around two years ago, he said, looking to buy giant fish from Cambodian fishermen and presumably transport them to Vietnam.
Phoen heard that they bought some 10 giant barbs last year alone. While some Cambodians who ensnare giant fish may be scrupulous and superstitious, others are more interested in profit—or are motivated by desperation—and with millions of nets cast in the Mekong each day, the fish run a constant risk of being caught and sold off illegally.
El Sokrey, a fisherman in Chong Koh Chrog Changvar, a Mekong houseboat community near Phnom Penh, epitomizes the circumstances that may drive Cambodian fishermen to break with tradition and law by contacting a Vietnamese trader if they find a giant fish in their net. Sokrey said his catch of smaller river fish has declined steadily since , which has had a devastating effect on his family.
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He used to earn more than enough through fishing to support his wife and youngest daughter and to pay for new nets and boat repairs. Now he has no choice but to repair his fraying net by hand, and his family is barely getting by. I cannot go to the land to find another job. Last year he caught a giant barb weighing about pounds, but it was dead. It weighed about pounds and was dead too.
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